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Quality results cannot be derived from improperly handled merchandise. Freshly received specimens should be scraped free from grease and fat, the lips skinned and the ears turned. Salting is a very important factor and should be done carefully, making certain that every part is covered. Stack hides and capes flesh up. The next day or two resalt once more and leave in stack for another day, then hang or spread out hair up so it will dry. Don’t over-dry, leave slightly pliable - NOT WET!

SOAKING INSTRUCTIONS

Antelope, Deer, Sheep and Goats - all thin skinned capes - should be soaked in warm (90 - 100 degree) water for 15 to 45 minutes. Elk, Moose, Buffalo and Bear should be soaked for 30 to 60 minutes.

After soaking, hang capes up so excess water can drain off - 10 to 15 minutes. Fold head with ears and nose toward middle, roll up and put in plastic bag, leave at room temperature and let sweat 8 to 10 hours. At this time, capes should be soft and ready to work with.

If cape becomes rubbery, cut back on soak time. The fresher the tan, the shorter the soak time.

TIPS
  • Several customers have recommended using Arm & Hammer Super Wash with GFD tan to experience excellent stretch and quicker soak/sweet times. Suggested using 1/4 cup wash to 5 gallons water.
  • Always use fine stock salt when salting. NEVER use rock salt or mineralized salt.
  • Don't air dry anything if at all possible.
  • Salt furs, don't air dry them. They make a much better finished product if they are salted.
  • WASH BLOOD OUT OF EVERYTHING or try to comb it out if at all possible. The longer blood sits in a hide, the more difficult it is to get out - sometimes it's impossible.
  • Make sure cape and hide EDGES are flat - not rolled or folded when salted.
  • Don't fold up capes or hides when you are salting - folds can hold moisture and cause slipping. Fold them after they are dry.
  • Don't over-dry hides. They should be flexible enough to fold and put in a box.
  • If a hide is partially air dried, re-hydrate it with equal parts salt and COLD water and then re-salt.
  • NEVER ship a wet or frozen hide. They will rot so fast it will scare you.
  • If you can, brush small furs such as coyotes and fox once before sending them. They can also be shampooed - you won't believe the difference this makes.
  • Please flesh your hides - chunks of meat and fat left on a hide can cause lots of problems, plus we have to stop and hand flesh them which costs us both time and money.
  • Watch for bugs in your salt pits - bugs ruin hides - dust with bug killer when they come in if they are buggy. Do not ship bugs to us.
  • When you get your hides back from us, if you feel that they are too oily (a condition caused by the type of oils we use and the fact that we hold drumming to a minimum) put a small amount of DAWN liquid dish soap in your soak water. This will eliminate the problem and make the hair fluffier. Be sure to use small amounts of soap - it's a lot easier to add a drop or two than it is to get rid of too much.
  • Punch your items with your own code. It provides a double identification system. DO NOT USE METAL TAGS OR WIRE.
  • PLEASE make sure your name and address is IN the box with the hides when you ship them. Exterior labels do get torn off occasionally. Easy way - drop a business card in each box.
  • If you need something handled RUSH, write RUSH all over the outside of the box it is shipped in - try to ship RUSH items separate from regular orders, it helps to keep them from getting mixed up.
  • Store all tanned items in plastic bags in a cool dry area. Don't hang them by their noses on your shop wall - there are too many changes in heat and humidity to keep the best quality.
  • Store all tanned SMALL FURS in plastic bags in the freezer. This will keep them fresh a lot longer if you are not going to mount them right away.


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